When you are choosing a piece of jewellery, the metal matters. Not just for how it looks, but for how it wears, how it ages, and what it is actually made of. The language around metals can be confusing — silver plated, gold filled, vermeil and the differences between them are not always obvious. This is a guide to what each term means, and what it means for you.
Silver Plated
Silver plated jewellery has a base metal that is most commonly brass or copper with a thin layer of silver applied to the surface through electroplating. The silver layer gives the appearance of silver at a lower price point, but it is important to understand what that means in practice.
The quality of silver plating varies considerably. At the lower end, the silver layer is thin enough to wear away relatively quickly, particularly at points of friction. At the higher end, the standard we work to at Rachel Hartley Atelier is where the plating is applied in a layer of 30 thousandths, using 1000 grade silver, free from cadmium, lead, and other heavy metals. This is the best quality plating available, and it offers excellent durability and a finish that sits close to fine jewellery.
Silver plated pieces require a little more care than sterling silver. Avoid prolonged contact with water, perfume, and lotions but with proper care, a well-plated piece will hold its finish beautifully.
Sterling Silver
Sterling silver is a precious metal alloy composed of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, most commonly copper. The copper is added for strength as pure silver is too soft to hold its form reliably in jewellery and the resulting alloy is durable, workable, and genuinely beautiful. You will recognise sterling silver by its hallmark: 925, or .925, stamped into the metal (although not all sterling silver is stamped).
Sterling silver is a real, lasting material. It will tarnish over time and this is a natural reaction between the silver and sulphur compounds in the air, However, tarnish is surface-level and easily removed. With regular wear and occasional polishing, sterling silver develops a warmth and character that only improves with age. It is hypoallergenic for most people, and it is a material you can wear for a lifetime.
Gold Plated
Gold plated jewellery has a base metal such as brass, copper, or sometimes silver, with a thin layer of gold applied through electroplating. It is the most accessible way to achieve a gold finish, and at its best it can be beautiful. The limitation is the thickness of the gold layer, which is typically between 0.5 and 2.5 microns, thin enough to wear away with regular use, particularly at points of friction.
The quality of gold plating varies enormously. At Rachel Hartley Atelier, where gold plating is used, it is applied in a layer of 10 thousandths using 18 karat gold, free from cadmium, lead, and other heavy metals; the best quality plating available, with excellent durability and a rich, warm finish.
Gold plated pieces benefit from a little extra care: keep them away from water, perfume, and lotions, and store them separately to avoid scratching. Treated well, a quality gold plated piece will hold its finish far longer than you might expect.
Gold Vermeil
Gold vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is a specific and regulated term. To qualify as vermeil, a piece must have a sterling silver base, plated with gold of at least 10 karats, in a layer of at least 2.5 microns. It is, in essence, gold plating on sterling silver and the sterling silver base is what distinguishes it from standard gold plating.
Vermeil is a meaningful step up from gold plated. Because the base is sterling silver rather than a base metal, it is more valuable, more durable, and better for sensitive skin. The gold layer will wear over time, particularly at points of contact, but the sterling silver beneath means the piece retains its integrity even as the surface ages.
Gold Filled
Gold filled is often misunderstood, and it deserves more credit than it receives. Unlike plating which applies a thin layer of gold to the surface, gold filled jewellery is made by mechanically bonding a thick layer of solid gold to a base metal core under heat and pressure. The gold content in a gold filled piece is typically 5% of the total weight, or 1/20th; a layer that is 50 to 100 times thicker than standard gold plating.
The result is a material that looks, feels, and wears like solid gold jewellery, at a fraction of the price. Gold filled does not flake, chip, or wear away under normal conditions. It is safe for sensitive skin, resistant to tarnish, and with reasonable care will last for decades. It is the material of choice when you want the warmth and finish of gold without the cost of solid gold.
Solid Gold
Solid gold is the benchmark against which all other gold materials are measured. It does not plate, coat, or bond. It is gold throughout, in a karat that reflects the proportion of pure gold to alloy metals. 24 karat is pure gold; 18 karat is 75% gold; 9 karat, the most common standard in the UK, is 37.5% gold. The higher the karat, the richer the colour and the softer the metal; the lower the karat, the greater the durability.
Solid gold does not tarnish, does not wear away, and does not react with the skin. It is the most enduring material in jewellery and pieces made in solid gold are passed between generations, repaired and resized and worn again, their value holding or increasing over time. It is also, accordingly, the most costly.
At Rachel Hartley Atelier, we do not currently work with solid gold as a standard material as the cost of the metal places it beyond the price point we work within for our core collection. However, if solid gold is the material you would prefer for a piece, we are very happy to source it for you. Please get in touch and we will discuss what is possible.
Copper
Copper is one of the oldest metals used in human adornment, worn long before silver or gold became widely accessible, and valued for its warmth, its workability, and its distinctive reddish-orange tone. It is a pure metal, not an alloy, and in jewellery it is used in its natural state: uncoated, unplated, and entirely itself.
Copper is a living metal. It oxidises naturally over time, developing a patina that deepens and darkens the surface, a process that many find beautiful, and that gives each piece a character that is entirely its own. The patina can be slowed with regular polishing, or embraced as part of the piece's story. Copper is also known to leave a green mark on the skin in some wearers. This is a harmless reaction between the metal and the body's natural chemistry, and one that washes away easily.
Copper has long been associated with healing and energy work. It is said to conduct and amplify the energy of the stones it is paired with, acting as a channel between the wearer and the crystal. It is associated with warmth, circulation, and grounding, a metal that connects as much as it adorns.
A Note on Care
Whatever the metal, the principles of care are consistent: keep jewellery dry, store it away from direct sunlight and humidity, and clean it gently with a soft cloth. The difference between a piece that lasts a season and one that lasts a decade is often simply how it is looked after.
If you have questions about the metals used in a specific piece, every product at Rachel Hartley Atelier includes full material details. We believe you should know exactly what you are wearing.
